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Showing posts with label Guide. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Guide. Show all posts

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Digital Camera Accessories - Here's A Guide On How Best to Get Everything Connected


Digital Photography Tutorial -Seamlessly Connected; It's all very well having a Dslr camera, Personal computer and other photography's kit, but at this moment you need to get them to connect with each other. Here's a guideline about how best to get the whole thing connected.

USB Connections:

The most common form of connection for a digital camera to modern PC is a USB (Universal Serial Bus) connection. This has recently been improved with the introduction of USB 2.0, which provides increased data flow speeds. Your keyboard, mouse, printer and scanner probably use USB. All digital cameras have a USB port for connection to a PC, and your camera should come with a USB lead as standard. This makes it very easy just to plug in and connect your PC to your camera, so you can download images for editing and printing. USB also enables 'hot swapping', which simply means you can plug or unplug the cables without needing to restart your computer or the device.

You camera will also probably come with a video lead which will allow you to connect your camera direct to TV to show pictures on screen. There are other forms of interface, the name given to connecting various digital devices to a PC, and some system will have one, two, or all of them usually depending on the price of the system.

FireWire Fast Data Connection:

FireWire is technically called IEEE 1394. It is a fast data cable connection common to higher-end digital cameras such as D-SLRs and most modern PC systems. FireWire is faster than 'normal' USB connections but not as fast as USB 2.0 and hot swappable. You'll also find FireWire on best digital camcorders and on some high-end printers and scanner.

Wireless Connections:

You'll rapidly see that wires abound with all these interfaces, so if you can afford it, consider wireless networking or Wi-Fi (Wireless Fidelity) connectivity. Wi-Fi devices transmit data in a waveform and can connect together multiple devices, such as a printer PC or camera, without any cables. Often use for notebook and laptop PCs. Wi-Fi also mean you can work anywhere in the home, not just sat at a sat at a desk. Any hardware bought that displays the Wi-Fi logo should interconnect seamlessly with any other Wi-Fi enabled device. It can work at distances of up to 350 feet, depending on the type of connection.

Connection Speed:

It may come as no surprise that the faster the rate at which data is transferred the faster you can work and each of the main connection options has different connection speeds. We don't have to worry about the exact rate they work at, but it's useful to know which is fastest.

- Bluetooth: Bluetooth is very slow when compared to cable add to Wi-Fi connections.

- USB (Universal Serial Bus) 1.0: This is pretty much the slowest wired connection and is being phased out and replaced by USB 2.0.

- Wi-Fi: Wi-Fi connections are getting faster all the time but are relatively slow compared with a direct USB 2.0 or FireWire connection. Also, Wi-Fi speed is affected by the number of obstacles in the way (number of walls and size of the room for example). The latest type (802.11g and fastest 802.11a) offers the greatest range and speed.

- FireWire/IEEE 1394: FireWire is fast and very common and offers connections fast enough for image and video transfer without problems.

- USB (Universal Serial Bus) 2.0: This new USB connectivity allows very fast connectivity and is slightly faster than FireWire.

Bluetooth is another example of wireless networking and can be found on many modern mobile camera phones. It is a common wireless interface for up to eight devices over a range of about 30 feet. If you have a Bluetooth-enable printer, you could print images directly from a Bluetooth camera without needing a physical wire for example. Not as flexible or fast as Wi-Fi, it still saves on wires.

Conclusion - USB 2.0 is key for swift connectivity as it makes connection of your digital camera to your PC or printer, very easy. It provides fast communication between devices, ideal for printing or transferring images.




We hope you found this digital camera article informative and also helpful. Tabitha Mwendo - She's very passionate and currently working on a new theme digital photography tutorial for more inspiration visit http://www.edigitalcamera.org




Wednesday, January 11, 2012

Event Photography - If You Enjoy Parties and Photography, Here's a Free Guide to Earning From It!


If you are considering becoming an Event Photographer this guide may be useful. I spent a long time researching all the kit needed to be a successful Event photographer, testing and costing carefully. It's all current gear available now so it's up to date unlike some of the guides I read.

I've been on training courses and I've done quite a few different Events now, so this is to help others avoid some of the common mistakes. This guide to Event photography is based on my personal experience and you are welcome to reproduce it as long as you credit this article with the website address

I do recommend anyone interested in Event photography going on the excellent training course supplied by Systems Insight, speak to Mike Orr, Stuart or Darren at systems insight. I've also found the Event Photographers Society really useful.

It is divided into sections as follows:

1, Camera Equipment needed for Event Photographers;

2. Lighting equipment for Event Photography;

3. Printers for Instant Event Photos;

4. Mitsubishi Click system for Event Photography;

5. Green Screen Event Photography;

6. Starting an Event Photography Business.

1. Camera Equipment for Event Photographers.

You don't NEED the latest high-end professional DSLR with pro glass lenses to shoot an event! It's nice to have good kit but that should be a given for any Pro Photographer. In reality the customer at a football tournament, school prom or black tie event doesn't care what kit you have as long as the results are good, and you don't want to be carrying a heavy camera with fragile glass in an environment that is often boisterous and busy!

You don't need to shoot huge resolution RAW files and won't have time to post process or mess about with hundreds of settings.You are aiming to get a sharp, vibrant and well lit photograph of enough resolution to print at your final output size. Concentrate on making the people look great!

I do recommend a wireless work flow which I cover later, and again you need the files to be small enough to send quickly. I use a Nikon D700 but that's only because I have one for Property photography as I need the full frame and low light capabilities.

I shoot jpg at just medium resolution for most events, and use a Sigma 24-70mm HSM lens so I can quickly zoom between individuals and groups. A Nikon D40 with a kit lens will do just as well. and I always carry one as a backup. It also takes my Nikon flashguns and is much lighter than a D700.

It is important to have a backup camera, I've even made do with a Nikon Coolpix P6000 when my D700 was being used pitch side at a Cricket Event. With proper lighting (see lighting section) I got almost identical results shooting people in front of a green screen. You must have at least one fully charged spare battery for each camera at an event, a couple of spare and preformatted memory cards, and spare batteries for your flashguns. I use the new Duracell rechargeables for the flashguns as they stay

So don't go mad on the camera kit, it will get bashed around at an event! As for settings, indoors I shoot at around f7.1 to f8 for groups so I get good depth of field, I use shutter speeds of around 125 to get sharp shots as I don't like a tripod, too restrictive, and I use ISO 400 to get enough sensitivity. White balance is easy on a Nikon, see lighting but the flash setting will do. For individuals and couples I open up to around f5 and shoot full length, head and shoulders and a close-up. Outdoors events are more dependent on the available light and the lens.

One tip, using a wireless transmitter to send the images straight to your PC, Mac or Click system avoids the pitfall of people (the ladies mainly) wanting to see each shot on the back of the camera as you take it! That gets them through quicker and lets your team at the workstation show the images properly at full size. I do actually keep the images stored in the camera as a backup though in case the wireless system stops working.

Another tip, if you are shooting groups at a School Prom or Corporate event, take a stepladder! If you get above them and shoot down it changes the angles and stops the people at the front looking much larger than those at the back! This lets you squeeze bigger groups in as well, especially useful if you are shooting in front of a green screen at an event.

Also, if you ever get a large group of girls at a School Prom or Sweet Sixteen event, take LOTS of shots! It is very hard to get a single photo where every girl is happy with how she looks, guys really are not as fussy. The girls will buy the photo that they look best in.

We tend to charge the standard rate £10 per shoot including a 6x9 mounted photograph, but do offer incentives for groups such as discounting copies of the same photograph, or offering 3 for the price of 2 if they are different shots that need processing.

2. Lighting Equipment for Event Photography

I don't use studio lighting for indoor events! Initially I used the standard large softbox above the camera and shot in front of a grey, back or white backdrop. But that's boring and old hat nowadays, the lighting is very flat and there is always the risk of people tripping over cables and the hassle of finding a nearby power socket.

At School proms, Bar-Mitzvahs and especially Sweet Sixteen parties it gets very busy and although we carry full insurance I don't want a heavy studio light falling on a guest. It's the same at Corporate events and Black Tie dinners, there's usually a huge rush after dinner for photos and even a taped down light can get pulled over by an inebriated partygoer!

So now I use a Nikon SB-900 on the camera with the wide-angle flap down and the soft diffuser fitted. This controls two other Nikon SB-600's also with the wide-angle flaps down using Nikon's excellent CLS lighting system. The two SB-600's are mounted on sturdy but portable stands and shoot through white umbrellas for lovely soft lighting.

At an Event you don't want to be messing around changing lighting when you have queues, but this setup is flexible and light enough to be safe to move quickly if you need to. The Nikon system lets me control the brightness of each flash directly from the camera without having to touch the lights.

As we use Green Screen backdrops at most events to add effects and digital backgrounds, I have to ensure the backdrop is evenly lit to avoid problems when chromakeying out the green. By mounting the umbrellas high up at either side and shooting through them, the green (or blue) backdrop gets evenly lit where it matters. The guests get a nice flattering lighting setup which I can easily adjust for large groups or closeups. I

I shoot on full manual with the on camera flash at about 1/32 power to give a little fill light, but mainly to trigger the two mounted lights. These are usually on about 1/8th power which is plenty! Recyling is very fast and I've never had to change batteries yet at an event, although I have charged spares on hand.

If I get a large group like a football or cricket team at a sporting event I can quickly move the two sidelights back and up the power.If it quietens down and we get a guest who wants some special shots, the lights can be moved so one acts as a keylight and one as a fill for classic Rembrandt lighting. We have professional makeover software running on the workstations so can enhance pictures quickly if someone wants portfolio shots.

The SB-900 on the camera can also be removed and used as a slave for hair lighting or other effects, triggered by the on canera flash. So we can do a three light setup easily! White balance is crucial, on Nikon cameras just stand where the subjects will be, set the white balance to "pre" then hold down the wb button for three seconds. When the display flashes, point the camera back between the lights and shoot. If it says "good" in the display, you are set to go. If not, try shooting again straight at one of the sb600, it will work!

The real beauty of this system is that it all fits in one calumet rolling case and is easily portable! It is very flexible for other types of photography. These flashguns are just as powerful as studio lights, and we even carry Fong diffusers and softboxes just in case we get a chance to do some glamour photography. (and yes, you can book us for private shoots!)

3. Printers for Instant Event Photos.

I used to to run a large independent company selling calibrated colour printers, scanners and displays into the corporate design market and previously worked with Canon, Xerox, Mitsubishi and Tektronix as a colour consultant. So choosing the best Event printers was an interesting exercise!

Inkjets and colour lasers were instantly dismissed as I needed portability, reliability and photographic quality. Plus I needed to know exactly what each print would cost. An inkjet will produce the quality with a bit of tweaking but will never match the quality, speed or durability of a dedicated dye-sublimation printer.

I don't believe in compatible inks as I've seen first hand the amount of R&D that goes into a manufacturers own ink. So ink-jet prints are going to be too expensive for event printing. Lasers are fast but lacking in colour quality, and extremely tricky to transport. After testing all the current offerings I decided on the Mitsubishi 9550 DW linked to the Mitsubishi Click system as our basic workhorse for producing large 9 x 6 inch photographs.

As I use a full frame camera this is exactly the size the camera shoots at, so no cropping needed! The photographs are fast and very accurate thanks to the dedicated colour profiling we use supplied by Systems Insight and fine-tuned by me!

The dye-sub process basically involves heating the ink on a ribbon until it turns into a gas and sublimates into the special paper. This is a true continuous tone process so the colour gamut is much wider than other processes, giving smooth and accurate skin tones with no dot patterns.

You can actually roll a photograph up and stand it in a pint of coke, leave it for hours and then wipe dry without any signs of running or fading, as demonstrated on the training course by Stuart! These photographs really won't fade and are fingerprint proof thanks to the special coating. They will last longer than any other photograph!

The fixed cost per photograph allows us to offer discounted pricing for pre-paid events like weddings or school proms as we know exactly what our costs will be per photo regardless of how much of each colour is used.

But we also offer a unique digital make-over service for events using a very special PC with professional retouching software so needed a printer we could connect directly. And we wanted to be able to offer instant 12" x 10" photos and other large sizes for Sporting Events like football and cricket events where team shots are popular.

So we decided on the larger format Mitsubishi as well as we have now found out it also works on the Click! Consumables for the Mitsubishi Event printers are readily available and therefore discounted prices help bring the costs down. Some of the more obscure brands like Shinko and Olmec are often tricky to source.

We are happy with the speed, quality and reliability of our printers, but more importantly, our customers love the results.

4. Mitsubishi Click System for Event Photographers.

My background is in colour technology as mentioned, but prior to that I was a DEC system manager, I have a HND in Computer Science and am a qualified programmer. Yes, I'm old enough to have done all that and spent 7 years in the Army controlling Artlillery fire by computers and by slide rules and log books when those systems were taken out.

So I'm probably more of a technical geek than most photographers. So why did I choose a dedicated turnkey solution for producing event photographs rather than use my expertise in PC and Mac solutions?

Laziness really, why re-invent the wheel! I quickly realised that to make any money at all in Event Photography you have to produce very good photographs to a very high standard very quickly! Work flow is very important. Initially I was either going to use a big 27" Mac with a studio display for quality to handle all the incoming pictures, or go down the Windows 7 route with a couple of fast Sony Vaio AW notebooks with their gorgeous Adobe RGB 18" monitors, with either system linked to a dye-sub or two.

But once I started looking at the workflow and software required I realised the Mitsubishi Click would cover all the bases. Yes, I could run either system quickly and use dedicated green screen software and professional retouching software to produce stunning results. But then who would take the photos? I needed a system that was streamlined and simple to use so I could train others to use it.

My first event was a corporate Xmas dinner and the only person available to do the green screen effects, printing, mounting and sales was my wife! The Click system is very straightforward, you set up a new event and pictures are sent wirelessly from the photographer. Selecting them by just touching the screen allows for full screen previews, once the customers have decided which photographs they want it is quite easy to drop in a green screen background and print, all by touch!

Camera cards and CD's can be easily read or burnt, multiple printers are supported and the whole system runs smoothly and look very professional. We've even had customers connect their own cameras or mobile phones by bluetooth and print their own photos! My wife managed well on our first event, and we had over thirty satisfied customers that evening, in a very short period of about 2 hours from when the meal ended to going home.

Many purchased multiple photos, with different backdrops and effects, but she handled it all while I took the shots. Now we have more trained assistants as it did wear her out a bit:) But I still wanted the flexibility and power to use more specialised green screen software to drop in overlays and fine tune some of the more tricky effects.

So with a bit of help from the techies at System Insight I worked out how to access the system directly, and underneath the smooth software front end is a powerful windows PC. So now if we get a really special request (like "put me in the Oval Office with President Obama") I can jump in and alt tab to Photokey or Portrait pro running in the background! And yes, you can print directy to the dedicated 9550DW by dropping jobs straight into the queue, email for details:)

You can also boost the processor speed, add more RAM, put in a HDMI graphics card to support external displays, even change out the motherboard if you are brave enough and don't mind voiding your warranty!

I'd recommend this system to anyone starting out, and would also recommend you buy it from Stuart or Darren at Systems Insight as they know the system well!

5. Green Screen Event Photography

To be successful in Event Photography as in any business you need a key differentiator, something to make you unique. We all provide basically the same service, photographing people having a good time and offering prints or downloads. Some specialise in niche markets like weddings or school photographs, or certain types of events like Equestrian or Motorcycling. I chose Green Screen Event Photography for a variety of reasons.

I like the portability of our lighting system and didn't want to spoil that by having to carry around various huge coloured backdrops for different occasions. I find it boring having dozens of people shot the same way, and I'm sure most people who go to events are getting fed up of the same bluey grey backdrop, or the "ultra modern" white or black high or low key shoot.

I want to have fun at an event and want the guests to experience something new. So we shoot everyone in front of a blue or more usually a green screen and then our special software can replace that colour with any of our 2500 digital backgrounds! This gives us the flexibility to add classy studio backdrops to Black Tie and Corporate Events, and lets us choose appropraite colours to enhance what the guests are wearing.

For School proms and Sweet Sixteens we can get the guests flying through space, on stage with their favourite rock bands or in the latest movies. Bar and Bat-Mitzvahs are great fun as we can transport the guests anywhere in the world, and for all events we offer free personalised overlays and designs so the event is memorable and unique.

The secret to Chromakey Event Photography is keeping the workflow fast! If you offer a guest 2500 choices, expect a huge queue or a lot of disapointed people. We tend to design 10 choices for each event and will print an example of each so they can decide before we shoot. That way if they are going to be posing alongside a Twilight Vampire or on the dance floor with John Travolta, they can strike an appropriate pose! It does slow things down having to add backdrops but we prefer the interaction and the guests enjoy the experience.

It's not all about getting them shot and printed to us, some event companies work like a slaughterhouse concentrating on quantity rather than quality, that's what the auto cameras at theme parks are for, we would rather spend a little time earning our money!

We prefer green screens to blue screens as less people wear the actual shade of green we use. Blue clothing, eyes and jewellery are more common and can cause probems unless you know how to mask out those areas. We use very special green screen material now, direct from the film studios. This is a special white backed material that absorbs light and glows evenly. Ordinary green muslin will reflect light and cause problems especially with very blonde hair. Contact me for details, it's twice the price but worth it!

Don't worry about evenly lighting the backdrop as many claim, that will just cause more spill and you need more lights power and cabling! You can't get your guests the recommended 10-12 feet away at an event, which you need to if you light the backdrop! Imagine if you were shooting a group and they all had to be 12 feet in front of the cloth!, how big would it need to be! Using pro software lets you quickly adjust for spill and reflected green light.

The trick is to light the people not the backdrop, that should only appear in the gaps anyway and if you have a light enough green it will work. Less is more, light from the sides and above so any shadows are still green and they will disappear.We use overlays and backgrounds to get realistic Magazine covers and special effects.

People don't notice that usually the models on magazines go in front of the title heading but behind the informative text! And watch out for copyrights, design your own magazine covers that are similar but not identical, you can buy these from the USA as overlays..PNG files are best but won't work on the Click, you need to do what we do and switch.

The President Obama shot is a good example, He is in the background, the guests are dropped in on top, then the desk is added as an overlay in front.

6. Starting an Event Photography Business.

Don't believe some of the salesmen out there who claim it's a licence to print money! That is their job and they do it well, but like any business you need to really work at it. Most pro photographers woudn't dream of doing a photoshoot AND supplying a framed large photograph for a tenner! And don't think just because you get a booking at a black tie event for example with 100 people that you are going to sell 100 photos!

30% of those people won't even want a photo taken! That's just the way it is. There won't be many single people wanting a photo on their own, and there's always a large group who want just one shot of all of them, but will buy additional copies at a discounted rate. That leaves the couples, so that brings you down to around five singles, a large group and twenty couples.

You will earn about £300 at an event of this size. Ok, that's a small event but just about possible for two people to cover so that's only one assistant to pay. Then there is the cost of the prints, mounts and bags, travelling costs, insurance costs not to mention an hour to setup and an hour to pack down plus sometimes many hours of waiting for a dinner speech to end.

Don't forget the website you need, the adverts to get bookings, the expense of all the gear, marketing your website, the admin and post production work to get the images online. The usual business costs of stationery, phone bills, promotional gear and all the insurance.

Also remember there are a lot of excellent photographers out there, and anyone can buy a good camera, lens, and a fast printer and go out and do this. The big companies will already have the big events sewn up, So you need to use your contacts, ask around, advertise and promote. Offer to do some small events free for the practice, but still charge the going rate. Even if you only sell 10 shoots in a night, the experience is invaluable before you tackle a busy event.

Once you get a booking, splash out on some pop up banners showing what you do, flyers and business cards. When you get there and setup, take a few test shots of the bar staff, waitresses and event organisers to test everything. Frame these up and give them out as gifts, asking them to show the guests! Great advertising! Get the DJ to tell guests where you are and what you are doing. Work the tables if it's quiet. Above all enjoy it and be polite and professional as you are representing us all!

That's enough secrets revealed for now, if anyone wants to ask any questions feel free. This is just my opinions and experience so far, I'll add more as I get time. If you find this at all useful, please tell others, I'm not charging to write all this, nor am I selling anything, but links to my site will really be appreciated, or a mention in any blogs etc. Cheers, Paul Harrison




I've been a keen photographer for many years, but at the age of 50 decided to go pro. Great excuse to buy the best gear! After a lot of research I brought a new Nikon D700, a Sigma 24-70 HSM lens, a Nikon SB-900 main flashgun with two SB-600 flashguns to use as slaves.

Then I went for the Mitsubishi Click system with 9550 dedicated photo printer churning out nine inch by six inch photographs really fast! I've since handled quite a few events, especially over Xmas, and have earned well from them. More importantly to me, the event organisers have loved what we do, and the guests have been amazed by our green screen effects and very happy to buy what we've produced.

I've now got a website http://www.fullframeevents.co.uk where you can see examples of what we do. It's great fun, hard work, but very rewarding and I love it!. It's all going well so i decided to share some of what I've learned. Hope it's helpful, Paul.




Friday, December 23, 2011

Lens Filters: A Beginners Guide For DSLR and Digital Camera Enthusiasts


Despite the advances of post processing thanks to Photoshop, filters are anything but redundant. So, what do they do and which lenses might a digital photographer need in his or her kit?

UV Filters

This is probably the most commonly used and useful digital SLR camera filters to purchase. It will filter out excess ultra violet light, whilst having no effect on exposure. Ultraviolet light can be a real problem for anybody taking landscape photographs as it can manifest as a haze that diminishes contrast from an image and becomes noticeable over a long distance.

However, given that this is much more of a problem with film rather than digital SLR cameras, because image sensors in digital SLR cameras are less sensitive UV light, why do you still need a UV filter? To protect your lens. A UV filter, unlike many other lenses, has no effect on exposure required or on the colours and will protect your expensive lens from knocks and scratches.

Resume here

Neutral Density filters

ND filters cut down the amount of colours and light entering the lens in equal measures so allowing you more creative freedom choice of aperture and shutter speed.

Therefore you can select a slower shutter speed (i.e. longer exposure) than might be achievable in bright conditions, for example, if you wanted to achieve a blurred waterfall effect on a sunny day without over exposing the image. Similarly one can be used when photographing action shots with blur to convey speed. Neutral density filters can also be employed in situations where one part of the scene is darker or brighter than others.

Polarizing Filters

Landscape photographers frequently use polarizing filters to diminish light reflected from outdoor surfaces like glass and water, for example if you want to capture images of water which doesn't lose its colour to the reflected sunlight on its surface. They can also saturate and darken colours, which make them useful in black and white as well as colour photography. A polarizing filter can intensify a field of oil seed rape, the green of a meadow or add richness to a blue sky. Similarly, in architectural photography, a polarizing filter helps with shots of modern glass buildings.

Graduated Colour Filters

To a certain extent, use of graduated colour filters can be avoided with use of Photoshop. However, if you want to cut out the post processing, or if you're not au fait with Photoshop, one of these can be very helpful in emphasizing the colour and tone of parts of a photograph. One part of the filter has a certain colour, which either gradually or abruptly changes to clear elsewhere on the filter. Commonly used graduated colour filters include orange to clear, for enhancing the appearance of sunsets, and blue to clear, which can enhance either water or sky depending on which way round it is used.

Contrast Filters

Because it can be difficult balance scenes where the contrast between light and dark is severe, there are two types of contrast filters available. A low contrast filters makes highlighted areas brighten up darker shadows around, while a soft contrast filter darkens the highlights. Both of these things can be difficult to pull off convincingly in Photoshop.

IR (Infrared) Filter

This type of filter blocks visible light and allows only infrared light to pass through to the camera lens. Skies darken and greens can become almost white.

Star filters

These have a thin lines etched onto a clear surface, creating therefore points of light that streak outwards from a central source, creating drama and visual interest.

Watch out for a few things. Light reflected from the inside of your filter can create flare. Stacking filters can create black shadows around the image, known as vignetting. You will lose clarity if filters are scratched or dirty.




Digital SLR Camera Filters




Wednesday, December 21, 2011

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Friday, December 16, 2011

Professional Sports Photography 101 Guide

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Friday, December 2, 2011

Digital Photography - Choosing Between a DSLR and a Compact Digital Camera - A Practical Guide


Choosing the best camera to suit you as an individual can be compared to very little else, but when it comes to having to choose between a DSLR digital camera or a compact digital camera the choice is certainly narrowed down. There can be quite a few factors to take on-board, which would possibly start with requirements and of course prices, but what other key factors are involved that will ensure that the camera we choose is ideally suitable for us?

First I would like to cover exactly what it is that we have at our disposal with the coming of modern technology and photography.

Technology has certainly moved on in recent years and cameras and photography are no exception, they have embraced this latest spurt in technology and covered some very extensive ground with it.

In fact it would probably be safe to say that unless you have been actively involved in or been following this progress you would probably be highly impressed at how much things have actually moved forward in regard to photography.

One of the key factors in choosing a suitable camera is how extensive you intend to be with it. In other words what kind of pictures you intend on taking. If you intend only to use a camera occasionally for general use and/or maybe even a few holiday snaps here and there then the best bet for you would more than likely be a compact digital camera.

Most compact style cameras work predominately on a totally automatic basis and for point and shooting photography they are simply ideal, which produce great snaps for the album.

Not only that, but they now come with high mega pixel capability and will provide adequate quality for ad-hock photography. High quality images with a useful small size making them ideal when it comes to carrying and storing.

A couple of tips you might like to take on board when choosing a compact camera are, (A) Be sure and choose one that can be charged as opposed to using disposable batteries. (B) If you do get one that uses batteries try not to use the live-view screen on the rear of the camera too often as this is a main battery and power drain.

If on the other hand you are looking for something that can offer your picture taking capabilities a little more all round flexibility and quality then the DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex) camera will be a more practical candidate for you. The DSLR is much more versatile and practical when it comes to photography and spending more time and effort, setting up, and looking for your pictures.

In many cases these modern day wonders seem to defy logic, especially when it comes to capabilities.

No film or heavy cumbersome camera bodies to drag around these days, most DSLR cameras tend to be made of light alloys and jam packed with sophistication. Replacing the film is history, today's DSLR's have a memory card that plugs straight into the camera itself, the memory cards offer you the capability of taking just a few hundred pictures right up to a few thousand (on each card).

Taking the pictures is as easy as 1, 2, 3, on the automatic settings then there is the manual mode and adjustments for the more accomplished photographers, but by simply using your DSLR cameras capabilities regularly you will soon be using all your in-built facilities that the camera has to offer as well as producing some absolutely astounding results in the process.

Once settled on which type of digital camera will suit your requirements best between Compact and DSLR it is simply a question of choosing the make and model that you (A) Feel comfortable handling and using and (B) Will provide you with the quality and end results that you need or are looking for.

This in itself may take a while, but it is well worth taking time looking at your options and alternatives before making a decision. Even then it will more than likely be a case of buying a camera that you can handle and use comfortably now and perhaps upgrading it at a later date.

You can in some cases get a better model digital camera than you initially thought for your budget if you become one of the people prepared to buy a used camera, most appear totally brand new and more often than not come with a six month guarantee.

Buying online provides you with some of the best options and greatest deals. The knack however is finding somewhere that can offer you all the latest camera models, but at the lowest prices. In some instances this can be a long winded operation, but hopefully a worthwhile one. It is simple a question of knowing where to look.

There are so many great things about modern day digital cameras that choosing one is only half the fun as they will provide you with so much fun and pleasure. One highly important factor to take into consideration when you are buying your new camera is the fact that you will NOT have to pay any picture development fees as was the case with the older style cameras.

You will be downloading your images straight onto your computer where you can print them off yourself or send them to relatives around the world via email.

This means that you will over time be making a vast saving, so why not add a little more to your projected camera budget and get the next model up from the one you initially thought.

The more you use your new camera the more you will enjoy using it. By now you should have a pretty good idea for your choice between a DSLR digital camera and a compact digital camera, so all that is needed to do now is decide on the best make and model to suit you and your budget.




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